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A rainy day in Amsterdam with children

It will rain. What actually works indoors with children, what to book ahead, and how to get across the city without everyone getting soaked.

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It will rain. Not necessarily all day, and rarely heavily, but reliably enough that a trip planned entirely outdoors is a trip that goes wrong.

The good news is that Amsterdam is unusually well set up for this, and the wet-weather version of the day is often better than the dry one.

Understand the rain first

Dutch rain is mostly not the rain you are used to. It is light, frequent and driven sideways by wind off the water, which is why umbrellas are close to useless here and why locals wear coats with hoods instead.

It also passes. A wet morning very often becomes a clear afternoon, so the right response is usually to reorder the day rather than to abandon it.

The wind is the part that catches visiting families out. The temperature reading and how it feels are two different numbers, particularly near open water.

What actually works indoors with children

Animals beat art, every time. Artis is the city zoo and it sits in the centre rather than out on the edge, which matters when you are wet and tired. It has indoor houses and an aquarium, so there is somewhere to go when the weather turns, and children who have run out of patience for buildings will find another hour there.

Glasshouses. Hortus Botanicus is one of the oldest botanical gardens anywhere, and the heated glasshouses are warm, green and quiet. It is a small place rather than a whole afternoon, but on a cold wet day being somewhere warm and humid with plants in it is disproportionately restorative.

The big museums, with a caveat. Museumplein has several within a short walk of each other, and the science museum is the one children generally want rather than the art ones. The caveat is that everyone else has had the same idea on the same wet morning.

Book the entry slot before you go. This is the single most useful thing on this page.

The major museums here work on timed entry, and on a wet morning in a school holiday the good slots are gone by the time you have decided to go. Booking the night before is usually enough; booking on the tram is usually not.

Boats are an indoor option

This is the thing visitors do not think of. An enclosed saloon boat is a covered, heated, seated hour with a moving view, and rain on the water looks considerably better than rain on a pavement.

For a family with small children it also solves the problem of everyone needing to be in one place and not walking. Most enclosed boats have a toilet aboard.

If a canal cruise is on your list anyway, the wet day is the day to use it, not the sunny one.

Getting around without getting soaked

Trams are frequent, warm and go almost everywhere in the centre, and on a wet day they are worth using for distances you would otherwise walk.

Paying is simpler than the guidebooks suggest. You no longer need a travel card: tap a contactless Visa or Mastercard, or a phone with Apple Pay or Google Pay, on the reader as you board — and again as you get off.

Three things that catch visitors out, and the first one catches Indian travellers especially:

  • American Express is not accepted on Dutch public transport. Not on trams, not on the metro, not on the trains. If AmEx is your main card, bring another.
  • You must tap out as well as in, or you are charged a penalty on top of the fare.
  • Use the same card or phone for both taps. Tapping in with a card and out with a phone reads as two unfinished journeys and you pay twice.

There is a daily cap, so a day of short hops does not add up the way you might fear.

The practical point is that a fifteen-minute walk in horizontal rain with two children costs you the rest of the afternoon in morale. A four-minute tram does not.

What to have with you

Not an umbrella. A hood, and a change of socks for anyone small.

Amsterdam's pavements puddle, cobbles hold water, and wet feet are the fastest route to a child who wants to go back to the hotel. One spare pair of socks in a bag has salvaged more afternoons than any attraction on this list.

The shape of a wet day that works

Roughly: something indoors and active in the morning, a long lunch sitting down, and one flexible thing in the afternoon that can be dropped without anybody minding.

The mistake is booking three things and trying to make all three happen. Two things and a gap is a better day in any weather, and in the rain it is the difference between a good memory and a wet march.

And if it clears

Have one outdoor thing held in reserve — a park, the free ferry across the IJ behind Centraal, a walk somewhere flat. Amsterdam after rain, when the light comes back and the water is still, is genuinely the best the city looks.

If you want the day planned properly

The family day includes museum entries booked, Indian lunch arranged, transport sorted, and an indoor answer already decided for the part of the day that needs one — which on most days here, it will.

Surmeet

Founder, Amsterdam Genie

Indian, living in the Netherlands, producing live events across Europe since 2018. Now arranging celebrations for Indian families here and visiting.

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